What I Tell My Clients
That No One Else Will
You will be cold in ways you didn't expect.
Not at the landings — the adrenaline handles that. The cold that surprises people is the 2am crossing of the Drake Passage. Pack for it. Specifically: thermal base layers, wind-blocking outer shell, and waterproof gloves rated below freezing. Not the gloves you use for a Chicago winter.
The Drake Passage is not negotiable — but it is manageable.
Every ship crosses it. The difference is 48 hours of mild seas or two days horizontal in your cabin. I know which operators have stabilization systems that make the crossing manageable, and I know which itineraries time the crossing strategically. I also recommend a prescription motion sickness consultation before departure — it makes a meaningful difference.
Smaller ships get where larger ships cannot.
This is not a preference — it is geography. The Weddell Sea, the deeper Peninsula channels, landing sites with strict daily visitor caps: these require small ships. Aurora Expeditions takes 100 passengers. That is by design. I recommend them because of it.
The month you go determines the trip you have.
January and February give you penguin chicks and 20 hours of daylight. November gives you sea ice, fewer ships, and a silence that is almost unbearable. These are different journeys. I will help you choose the right one based on what you actually want to experience — not which dates are available.
Bring a journal. The photos will support the memory. They cannot replace it.
Every client who has gone tells me the same thing: the scale doesn't fit in a photograph. The size of a tabular iceberg. The smell of a penguin colony. The specific silence after a whale surfaces and dives. You will want a way to capture what the camera misses.
Seasonal Guide
Best Time to Travel
November
First Season
Sea ice. Solitude. Almost no other ships. The continent at its most untouched.
December
Wildlife Awakening
Penguin eggs hatching. Whale activity increasing. Long golden light over the ice.
Jan – Feb
Peak Season
Penguin chicks. Maximum whale activity. 20 hours of daylight. The fullest Antarctic experience.
March
End of Season
Fewer ships. Adult penguins preparing to leave. A quieter, more meditative journey.
November
First Season
Sea ice. Solitude. Almost no other ships. The continent at its most untouched.
December
Wildlife Awakening
Penguin eggs hatching. Whale activity increasing. Long golden light over the ice.
Jan – Feb
Peak Season
Penguin chicks. Maximum whale activity. 20 hours of daylight. The fullest Antarctic experience.
March
End of Season
Fewer ships. Adult penguins preparing to leave. A quieter, more meditative journey.
Expedition Partners
Ship Partners
Aurora Expeditions
100 passengers · Small-ship access to remote sites · Zodiac landings at every stop · My top recommendation for first-time expedition travelers
Ask Nicci about Aurora ExpeditionsQuark Expeditions
Pioneer of polar expedition travel · Range of ship sizes · Strong naturalist programming
Ask Nicci about Quark ExpeditionsLindblad / National Geographic
Science-forward · NatGeo partnership · Emphasis on photography and education
Ask Nicci about Lindblad / National GeographicHurtigruten Expeditions
Norwegian polar heritage · Sustainability-focused · Strong value at category
Ask Nicci about Hurtigruten ExpeditionsInvestment
What This Journey Costs — and Why It's Worth It
$8,000–$25,000+ per person
The honest answer is that an Antarctic expedition starts at approximately $8,000 per person for a shared cabin on a shoulder-season voyage, and scales to $25,000 or more for a premium suite, peak season departure, or add-on experiences like sea kayaking, camping on the ice, or helicopter overflights.
What that number buys is not a hotel room with a view. It is 10 to 14 days in the most protected wilderness on earth, aboard a ship crewed by naturalists who have made this crossing dozens of times, with landings at sites that 99.9% of the world will never stand on.
Every client I have sent has come back and said the same thing: it was worth every dollar.
A Personal Note
My Honest Position on Antarctica
I haven't stood on the ice yet — but I will. Antarctica is on my expedition list, and I am planning my voyage now.
What I have done: I've spent years helping clients plan and process this journey. I know the operators, the ships, the cabins worth upgrading, and the months that match different personalities. I've listened to more Antarctica debrief calls than I can count. I've built itineraries for first-timers and for people on their third voyage.
When I go — and I will — it won't be my first time understanding Antarctica. It will be my first time standing in it.
That distinction matters to me. I think it should matter to you too.
Nicci Grotefendt · CLIA Certified Cruise Counselor · CEO, Travel GHR
Common Questions
Frequently Asked Questions
Every Antarctic voyage departs from Ushuaia, Argentina — the southernmost city in the world. Most clients fly through Buenos Aires, which connects directly from major US hubs. I handle all pre- and post-voyage logistics, including Ushuaia accommodations, Buenos Aires connections, and departure-day transfer coordination. You arrive. Everything else is handled.
The short answer: layers, waterproof everything, and leave half of what you think you need at home. The ship provides expedition parkas and rubber boots for landings — you do not need to buy either. What you do need: thermal base layers, fleece mid-layer, waterproof shell pants, warm hat, liner gloves plus waterproof outer gloves, and seasickness medication. I send every Antarctica client a detailed packing list tailored to their specific ship and season.
Honest answer: it varies. The Drake can be glass-calm — what sailors call the Drake Lake — or it can be a sustained two-day swell. Most crossings fall somewhere between. The ships I recommend have stabilization systems that reduce motion significantly. I recommend a consultation with your doctor about prescription options before departure — they work considerably better than over-the-counter alternatives.
For peak season departures and premium cabin categories, 12 to 18 months is the honest minimum. Premium suites on Aurora and Lindblad frequently sell out within weeks of release. Shoulder season voyages may have availability 6 to 9 months out — but I never recommend building your Antarctica plan around hoping for last-minute openings.
You need to be able to board and disembark a Zodiac inflatable boat — stepping over the side, sometimes in swell. Most landing sites require walking on uneven terrain: pebble beaches, rocky outcroppings, soft snow. There is no requirement for hiking fitness. Clients in their 70s and 80s make this journey regularly. If you have a specific mobility question, ask me directly — I will give you an honest assessment, not a sales pitch.
IAATO is the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators — the body that governs how commercial tourism operates on the continent. IAATO members follow strict protocols: no more than 100 passengers ashore simultaneously at any landing site, mandatory biosecurity checks to prevent invasive species transfer, wildlife approach distance rules, and strict waste management. Every operator I recommend is an IAATO member. If an operator is not, I do not recommend them.
Next Step
Begin Planning Your Antarctic Expedition
Antarctica isn't a trip you book on a whim. It's a trip you plan with someone who knows the operators, has guided clients through every stage of this journey, and will be honest with you about every detail — from which month fits your goals to which cabin is worth the upgrade. When you're ready, I am too.
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